The idea to climb Aconcagua to fund prostate cancer research was motivated by "Expedition Inspiration," a documentary about a group of women with breast cancer who climbed Aconcagua, the highest peak in the world outside the Himalayas. The trip was the brainchild of Laura Evans, a survivor of the disease. The purpose of the climb was to raise awareness about breast cancer and raise funds to continue research efforts in hopes of finding a cure. Having seen this compelling film, and knowing the terrible effects of the disease that his father experienced, Terry vowed to do something to try to help prostate cancer patients.
From conception to implementation, only 18 months elapsed. When Terry returned to California from Africa, he began to make the first of what would be hundreds of telephone calls, personal contacts, letters, and meetings. His wife, Michele, became involved, tirelessly helping every aspect of the climb, as did his mother, Bobbie, and his sisters, Christie and Julie.
Terry approached the people at the Prostate Cancer Research Institute in Los Angeles, and they agreed to help with the project. A number of companies sponsored the project by offering products and financial support: Jansport; The Northface; Marmot; Outdoor Research (OR); Voile Mountain Equipment; Dragon Optical; Globalstar Satellite phones; Mountain Hardware; Thurlo socks; Uptime Sports Nutrition Medical Industries; Sharkey's; SportsCare International; Terramar Graphics; Summits Adventure Travel; Bruce Clay web design; Douglas Labs; NadaChair; and Summit Equipment. Canon also provided a 35-mm camera and 28-135-mm image-stabilizing zoom lens, which enabled us to capture the climb on 35-mm film.
The climber "candidates" were asked to write a short narrative describing why they wanted to be involved in the climb. There was a criterion that each person have a link to prostate cancer. Those with active or remissive prostate cancer were encouraged to participate. From the many that applied, nine summit team members and seven trekkers (support climbers) were selected. Summits Adventures of Ashford, WA supplied five guides; in Argentina we selected an additional guide/translator, Nancy. Free rentals on climbing boots, crampons and ice axes for those who needed them were also made available by Summits Adventures.
We arrived in Mendoza, Argentina on January 15. We scurried to retrieve our gear, packed it in taxis, and went directly to Hotel Aconcagua. What a scene - packing tons of gear into small taxis - in the trunks; back seats; front seats; and hanging out the windows. At the hotel, we were greeted by members of the guide team lead by Mark Tucker.
Tuesday was spent loading the vans and traveling to our hotel in Penitentes. Our route there carried us along the very brown, rapidly flowing Mendoza River. We left the plains and flat areas around the city and headed deep into the Andes. The hotel was located at just over 8,000 feet and was surrounded by towering peaks on either side. We unloaded, and after lunch (we all especially liked the marinated mule tongue) We took a short hike to about 9,000 feet to further acclimatize, and were exposed to a gorgeous panoramic view of the surrounding mountains and valley below.
The following morning, we rode via jeep up to the Horcones Valley to see where many of the expeditions begin, and to catch a glimpse of snow-covered Aconcagua. We hiked to help us acclimatize, and Mark and the other guides, Ben Marshall and Phil Arnold, showed us techniques to climb and descend boulders. When the climbing lesson was completed, we hiked to Puente del Inca, a small town that was home of the ancient bathhouse situated along the Mendoza River.
Returning to the hotel, we met various people who had just come down from their attempts to reach the summit, and quickly found out that not everyone completed the climb. We learned that only about 40 percent of those who attempt the climb reach the summit. One group, IDEA 2000, managed to get seven of its eight climbers to the summit, which is outstanding. The climbers in this group suffered from diabetes, and were there to bring awareness about that disease.
On January 18, we left the hotel and its comforts for our ascent of the mountain. The route we chose is known as the "false Polish glacier." We began on the trail in the Vacas Valley, stopping every 60-90 minutes to rest, drink, and eat. We began to consume massive amounts of calories to provide the much-needed fuel required. These diets contained foods most of us rarely ate at home: candy bars and other junk foods, but also tried various protein bars. We were equipped with vitamins from Douglas Labs and EcoNugenics, which we took each morning as we began our daily activities.
The first day of hiking was not too difficult. It involved walking over rocks of every size and shape imaginable, with a few ups and downs along the gently rolling hills that paralleled the Vacas River. The winds gusted as we marched with our heavy packs, sometimes trying even the best proprioceptors available to each of us. Without our Dragon sunglasses, it would have been impossible to keep tons of dirt out of our eyes, and the sun from scorching our corneas. We also used handkerchiefs to protect our nostrils and mouths as much as possible. It seemed that each step someone took along the trail resulted in a cloud of dust destined to alight on our body and gear. We were also supplied with great hats from Outdoor Research and sunscreen from SportsCare and SPF-To-Go. These products also provided much-needed protection from the penetrating rays of the sun, made much more severe by the altitude, arid environment and temperatures, which reached over 85 degrees during those first few days on the trail.
A typical day of hiking began between 8-9:00 a.m. The next day, we covered rolling hills along a beautiful valley, which continued to parallel the Vacas River. The early mornings, late afternoons and evenings were chilly enough for our Northface down and shell jackets. The temperature differences were amazing. It was fairly cold early in the mornings, but after the sun appeared, the temperatures soared. Toward the evening, the temperatures dropped again, and it was cold at night, even at the lower elevations.
Just before arriving at Casa de Piedra in the afternoon, known as "approach camp two," we had been walking through the gently rolling hills when all of a sudden, Aconcagua came into view through a deep valley to our left. What an incredible and imposing site, but oh-so-gorgeous!
After the tents were erected, we began our search for a suitable water source. Most of the water we consumed or cooked had to be filtered or treated with iodine tablets. Late in the afternoon, we caught a glimpse of a guanaco (Argentinean llama) grazing along the side of a mountain across the river. Trekking camp two was situated at about 10,400 feet. Each night, a different team member called in dispatches announcing our days' activities using the GlobalStar satellite phone. These dispatches were vital for people around the country who were tracking our progress and success of the expedition. We were also allowed to call our choice of people almost every day. Each day our head guide, Mark, continued to teach us about the mountain, climbing, and especially safety measures. The class that night was on altitude sickness and safety.
On our third day of hiking, we were faced with having to cross the Vacas River. We could wade across the strong current, or ride across the river on muleback. Only Ted Forcum decided to brave the cold water and wade across. We put on our heavy packs, then climbed aboard the mules for our journey across the river. Once on the other side of the river, we began to climb toward base camp. As we climbed, we were faced with having to cross the river three more times, but without the use of the mules. Each river crossing resulted in taking off our boots; wearing shorts or rolling up our pants above the knees; putting on sandals; and making the crossing with our full packs. The current was strong and the water was cold, but we all managed to cross safely. At one crossing, senior guide Mark Tucker even carried some of us across on his back.
We completed the approach that day after almost 10 hours of trekking. Along the way to base camp, we turned and headed up the Relinchos Valley to Plaza Argentina, where we set up our tents and gladly unloaded our packs. At 13,400 feet on a glacial moraine overlooking the river valleys we had crossed, we bid farewell to the mules and established base camp. We had the fortune of having a large communal tent at our disposal, which allowed for ease in cooking and eating, and as a refuge from the cold and wind. A doctor was present full-time for altitude-related illnesses, for cuts from falls, dysentery, and a host of other possibilities.
As for food, there were concessions in small tents where you could purchase pizza, hamburgers, hot dogs, sodas and beer. Our biggest luxury, however, was the presence of outhouses.
The following day was a much-deserved day of rest. Even though the day was scheduled for rest, we took a hike up about 600 feet for further acclimatization. The stars at night defied description. The sky's vastness and clarity was unlike anything we had ever seen!
On January 22, we were ready for our first Alpine carry. With our 65-pound Jansport packs on our backs, we headed toward camp one at just above 16,000 feet. The use of walking poles supplied by Voile helped us tremendously as we traversed rocks, steep inclines, and slippery scree (soft, loose rock). Along the way, we encountered the amazing neve penitents (snow pinnacles). After arriving at camp one, we unloaded and stashed gear in one of our tents and headed back to base camp for the night. The next day, we would carry another load up to camp one, and remain there that evening. At this point, taking a breath, moving and getting dressed or undressed began to take longer and proved more and more difficult. Even sleeping for some was almost impossible. On this day, Bob Each, a summit team member with prostate cancer, had to return to base camp because he did not feel well.
We rested the next day and prepared for the climb up to camp two at 19,000 feet. At 16,000 feet, we had three people in a tent instead of the two we normally had at lower elevations, which meant there wasn't much room for anything except bodies. At night, some listened to music and some read. The wind here was more forceful than at the lower elevations, and the temperature decidedly colder. We kept warm with Marmot long underwear, Northface sleeping bags, Thorlo socks; our hands and heads were protected by products supplied by Outdoor Research.
The climb to 19,000 feet began early on a cold morning, with each climber carrying over 45 pounds. As we climbed higher, breathing continued to become more labored and each step seemed more difficult. There were times when we would take a step and breathe, or take two breaths per step for a while. Each climber had to find his own particular breathing rhythm. At 18,570 feet, Sean Mauer and Tom Hyde,DC, turned back; Justin Lukasavige had not been feeling well and turned at around 18,000 feet; Ben walked back down with us all the way to base camp, then walked back to 16,000 feet that night.
At base camp, we met the trekking team and their guides, Mike Lindass, Casey Grom, and our local guide, Nancy. Those who had descended earlier also met the six members of the trekking team, four of whom had prostate cancer. The trekking team members were Murray Swindell of Concord, MA; Bob Butler, of Fredericksburg, TX; Doug Menelly, of NYC, NY; and Jim Cozad, Ken Malik and Blue Nelson, all from Los Angeles, CA. John Loesing; Erin Stanhope; Glenn Weaver; Ted Forcum; and Terry Wyman were the only summit team members remaining, along with Mark Tucker and Ben Marshall as our guides. Another guide, Phil Arnold, had descended with Bob Each back to the hotel in Penitentes.
The remaining group of seven set up tents at camp two and returned to camp one to sleep, and to prepare to go back to camp two the following day. The climbing up and down, while strenuous, served to improve acclimatization.
The next day, the summit team climbed back to camp two at 19,000 feet, rested and got up at 3:45 a.m. to make a summit bid. The winds were very strong and the temperature bitterly cold. As the seven-member team departed camp two for the summit, Ted suffered frost nip on his feet and turned back around 19,400 feet. Erin was also feeling ill and came back down with Ted, escorted by Ben. After arriving at camp two, Ted and Erin continued down to base camp. Ben went back to join the remaining three summit team members and head guide Mark in their quest to reach the summit.
Somewhere around 20,000-21,000 feet, John and Glenn decided to call it a day. They descended back to camp two to await the arrival of Terry and Ben. Mark accompanied John and Glenn back to camp two. Mark had already summited Aconcagua previously, allowing Ben the opportunity to complete his first summit of this mountain. Mark had successfully climbed Everest and six of the coveted seven summits on each of the continents. The only one remaining to climb on his list is a small peak in Australia.
The route we had been following joined the Routa Normal just below the Refuge Independencio at 20,500 feet. The summit team came upon a gradual traverse across the west face of the mountain. Here the winds were so severe that the climbers were blown over several times. They had to step sideways on the trail with their backs to the wind to maintain an upright posture. This traverse brought them to the base of the Canaleta, a 1,800-foot-long mountainside gorge that led to the summit ridge. The Canaleta was steep and difficult, more so than any other point along the climb. Breathing became even more difficult. There was very little snow in the gorge, and walking was made difficult by the loose rock. At the base of the Canaleta, John Loesing and Glenn Weaver decided to call it a day.
When Terry reached the summit, he used GlobalStar to report success to his wife and update our website. He took the "Prostate Cancer Climb" banner, signed by all the team members, a memorial flag for his father and Laura Evans (the founder of Expedition Inspiration, who passed away in October of 2000 of brain cancer), and a banner honoring Bob Each and Harry Pinchot (his inspiration for the climb). The summit team had also signed the banner.
After spending 15 minutes on the summit, taking pictures of the view and the memorial flags and banners, and making two calls, Terry placed the memorial flag at the base of the summit's cross, and Ben and Terry descended to camp two, 13 and one-half hours after departing for the summit. We shared the moment with John, Glenn, Mark, and videographer Mike Weintz. We were exhausted and "crashed" after dinner. The next morning, we packed the gear and head to camp one for a rendezvous with the trekking team and remaining summit team members. Four of five men with prostate cancer made it to above 16,000 feet. It was a tearful, yet happy reunion for the two teams as they met and exchanged "high-fives" and hugs. Stories of the climb abounded among the group and after about an hour, both teams divided the gear and united on their descent back to base camp.
Everyone gathered at base camp for one final night, happy to be back at a lower elevation safely. The next morning, January 29, everyone packed up and began a 10-hour hike, which involved crossing four rivers without the mules: a long and tiring day. That night, we feasted on meat and potatoes, Argentinean-style, cooked outside on a grill. The food was incredibly delicious. Mark managed to have two bottles of red wine brought by mule for our consumption. Several of the team members elected to sleep outside and enjoy the panoramic view of the brilliant starlit night.
The next morning, the gear was packed up one final time, and we hiked six hours along the trail back to the road where this incredible trek had begun almost two weeks earlier. We were picked up by. When the waiting vehicles came into sight, those of Fernando Grajales, the gentleman who had supplied the mules and transportation to the departure point, there was a tremendous feeling of accomplishment.
Back in Mendoza, Terry's wife, mother, and sister joined us for an emotional reunion. That night, we celebrated our successful adventure.
What started as a thought and an inspiration became a success in every respect. It was an adventure we'll never forget. There is no doubt we were able to make a difference. We met and spoke to many people from all over the world about prostate cancer. We listened to their stories and experiences about the disease, and received pledges from many that they would be screened for prostate cancer, and would be responsible for their brothers, fathers, spouses, and friends being checked.
This climb had succeeded in bringing together men from all over the United States; different ages and different backgrounds; each as interesting as the next, and each with a story to tell. Despite their differences, they had gathered for a common cause. Women and minorities had been sought for the expedition, though only one female stepped forward. (She suffered an injury while training for the climb in Yosemite, and had to withdraw.)
As Terry began to organize, there were hundreds of obstacles along the way to the project, but he never gave up hope. With persistence, the sponsors began to believe in his cause and make the climb a reality. Take a moment and think about the logistics of bringing together 16 men (summit and trekking team), six guides and five videographers; arranging transportation; food; lodging; brochures; a website; letters; phone calls; meetings; and dozens of other things to make this event possible! Our prayers were truly answered, and, without a doubt, none of this would have been possible without the support of our sponsors, families, friends, and various organizations.
Our film crew was professional: Mike Weintz; Dan Windom; Blue Nelson (who was also a member of the trekking team); Paulo Castillo; and Tom Taplin. They shot over 50 hours of film, which, after being edited, will be marketed to both network and cable TV. Still photographs were provided by Tom Hyde,DC. Almost 1,700 slides were taken. Tom used the Wallaby leg packs from Summits Equipment for camera gear, which are a new concept and a welcome addition in the rugged terrain encountered.
We thank those who believed in the project: our sponsors and all those who donated products and money. Our quest is to raise a million dollars, spread the word about prostate cancer, and help save lives. By climbing the mountain, we hope that we give courage and strength to those affected by the disease - they have a mountain to climb, too.
If you wish to make a donation, please send it to:
The Prostate Cancer Climb
c/o Prostate Cancer Research Institute
5777 W. Century Blvd, Ste. 885
Los Angeles, CA 90045.
Be sure to mark the donation, "Hap Weyman Prostate Memorial Fund or the Prostate Cancer Climb."
Just a final reminder: If you are male and you have not had your prostate checked lately, please take a moment right now to schedule at least a PSA and digital exam. Remember, this disease can attack the male at any age, but if caught early enough, your chances of survival can be increased tremendously.
Terry Weyman,DC,
Ted Forcum,DC
Tom Hyde,DC
www.prostatecancerclimb.com
Dr. Thomas E. Hyde is a graduate of Florida State University and Logan College of Chiropractic.